Background
When I first heard about Sero Watch Company and its founders, Sergino Röntgen and Robert van de Stadt, I must admit, I was a little jealous. Two friends and longtime watch collectors coming together to create their own watch. Isn't that every watch nerd's fantasy?
Their journey into watchmaking was an organic one. Over years of collecting, they began to think more carefully about what made a great watch. They drew particular inspiration from the design and proportions of classic vintage watches.
Eventually, they asked themselves a question that resonates with me: "What would the ideal modern dress watch look like if it were designed purely from a collector's point of view?"
The outcome of this question, their debut watch, the Signature.
You may be wondering what connection the Netherlands has with watchmaking. That connection comes down to one man: Christiaan Huygens, inventor of the pendulum clock in 1657 and the balance spring in 1675.
Those two inventions are among the most significant milestones in the history of watchmaking. The balance spring is still at the heart of almost every mechanical watch made today.
Case
Heavily inspired by 'jumbo' watches of the past, the stainless steel case measures 37.5mm, has a thickness of 9.5mm and a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm.
The case has a combination of brushed and polished elements. The flat polished bezel shrinks the visual appearance of the watch while the horizontal brushing provides a contrast in how the watch plays with the light.
Sapphire crystals are used both dial side and on the case back allowing for an unobstructed view of the movement in action. The dial side crystal has 3 layers of AR coating minimising glare and improving legibility.
The caseback is engraved with the following: Sero Watch Company, 316L stainless steel, SW210-1b Swiss Movement, Sapphire and 10ATM.
The lugs are elongated and elegant, a throwback to vintage pieces of the past. The top of the lugs are polished, in keeping with the bezel while the lower half are horizontally brushed as per the mid case.
A nice touch is the engraved Sero Watch Company, Netherlands at 6 o'clock. It feels like an announcement and each time you roll your wrist you are reminded of the brand's name.
I am aware that the buckle of the prototype I spent time with is not as curved as the production model and also note it will be slightly slimmer.
Dial
The dial creates a real statement with its vertically brushed metallic blue aesthetic. The dial responds dynamically to the light and gives new meaning to the word 'shimmering'.
The engraved Breguet style numerals are finished using gunmetal ink through a process of electroplating which creates even more depth. They are classy and refined, perfectly reflecting the watch’s overall character.
The dial is complemented by beautifully sculpted spade thermally blued hands, their three dimensional contours creating a captivating play of light and shadow.
The Sero Watch Company name sits at 12 o’clock, balanced by Netherlands at 6 o’clock. The font used is a combination of Vladimir Script, English and Italic Georgina. We often take the font on a watch for granted but when speaking with Sergino he highlighted the philosophy of the brand, "the details matter".
While the collection name, 'Signature', and minute track were pad printed, in the final production of the watch craftsmanship will be taken a step further with both being engraved.
Movement
The Signature utilises the dependable hand-wound Sellita SW210-1b in its Elaboré form and with D4/Luxurious Decoration.
The Elaboré grade sits above the 'standard' version of the movement with three regulation positions as opposed to two as well as a +/-7 seconds per day average deviation rather than +/-12.
Fundamentally, the movement is both reliable, easily serviceable and offers 45 hours of power reserve.
The D4/Luxurious decoration level is the highest offered and benefits from Geneva stripes, mainplate with circular graining, snailed bevels, snailed crown-wheel, snailed ratchet, snailed barrel and rhodium plating. Sero Watch Company have also optioned blued screws. Perlage can also be seen on the baseplate between the bridges.
The final production model will benefit from custom gilt engraved bridges, yet another example of where 'the details matter'.
Wearing Experience
Everything about the watch feels considered. It is clear this is a piece designed by collectors, with every detail carefully thought through.
The design blends vintage inspiration with modern execution, creating a balance that feels both familiar and fresh.
The elongated seconds hand is a perfect example of this attention to detail, stretching almost all the way to the edge of the case and adding a sense of proportion and balance to the dial.
The brushed metallic dial is another standout feature. In direct sunlight, it comes alive with subtle reflections, while in softer light it takes on a more muted grey tone, creating a completely different character.
Even the strap choices show the same level of thought. The ostrich leg leather option feels premium, both visually and to the touch, adding another layer of refinement to an already carefully considered design.
The real surprise for me is that the Signature's 10ATM of water resistance means that, on a rubber strap, this elegant dress watch can easily accompany you in the water.
What Would Make Me Happier
The Signature epitomises what can be created when an attentive watch collector ethos is brought to the watchmaking process.
Every detail has been considered.
What is more impressive is that the improvements to the prototype are not just minor adjustments but significantly elevate the craftsmanship of the watch.
Dial side there will be an engraved minute track and model designation. Movement side there will be a customised gilt engraved bridges.
When I think about what would make happier, I honestly find myself struggling.
I would say that while I like how the elongated lugs pay homage to vintage watches, I wonder whether adding some more character to them could elevate the watch further.
Would stepped lugs make the watch more distinctive? Would a bevel create a more sculpted and defined look to the overall watch package?
I thought about what a fumé dial would look like but reconsidered because of the potential to take away from the splendid engraved Breguet style numerals.
Specifications:
- Dial: Electroplated metallic brush effect (blue), Breguet style numerals, engraved and gunmetal electroplated
- Case Diameter: 37.5 mm
- Thickness (incl crystal): 9.5 mm
- Lug to Lug: 46.5 mm
- Lug Width: 20 mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel
- Movement: Sellita SW210-1b manual winding
- Power Reserve: ~45hours
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal 3 layers of AR coating, sapphire crystal exhibition case back
- Water Resistance: 10ATM / 100m
- Bracelet / Strap: 20mm Genuine handmade blue ostrich leg leather with stainless steel buckle
Dislaimer: We don't use AI for authoring any of our visual or written artwork. Everything you find in Happy Horologists Magazine is and will be human made.
