Background
Founder of the successful micro-brand Selten, Leo has never been one to stand still. He has always enjoyed taking a different path, and the Orphic Project 0 makes that clear. Created as part of the new Special Projects Division, the watch marks a bold new direction.
The watch you see here is the result of many design attempts and countless prototypes. Leo shared that the process even meant “completely scrapping and restarting the core design” at one stage. The James Webb Space Telescope was a clear source of inspiration, but turning the idea into a working watch was no easy task.
Leo took the telescope’s signature hexagonal shapes and built them into the rotating wandering hours system. The result is a design that reflects both his creativity and determination.
Case
The case could quite easily be studied at an art exhibition. I don’t think I have ever seen so many facets and angles on a case in my life. The mix of brushed and polished elements, alongside the black grille surrounding the mid-case, adds a distinctive flair.
Though its unconventional shape may make it appear larger in pictures, the case wears surprisingly well at 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick, excluding the domed crystal. The sharply downturned lugs also keep the lug-to-lug measurement to a modest 47mm.
Dial
The Orphic Project 0 variant I had for review was the “Nebula”, its standout feature being the black mother-of-pearl dial plate. Combined with the inlaid stars, it strongly recalls the look of the dancing aurora.
The James Webb Space Telescope–inspired design takes centre stage on the dial, expressed through a wandering hour system made up of nine hexagonal discs. From 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock are minute markers. The 10-minute markers are shown as numerals in grey pentagons, while the 5-minute marks are smaller numbers placed below, with the minutes shown as simple dashes. The grille motif from the mid-case is echoed on the lower part of the dial, where the Orphic logo sits at 6 o’clock.
The dial uses Super-LumiNova in striking fashion, with the nine discs, hour numerals, minute numerals and markers all glowing blue. Meanwhile, the stars on the dial plate have a green shimmer.
Movement
The modified Miyota 9039 has a custom rotor that links to the dial theme, reflecting the James Webb Space Telescope’s hexagonal design.
A fun detail is that it is also filled with Super-LumiNova. The movement bridge is decorated with Cote De Genève and also features heat blued screws, providing an artisanal touch.
Wearing Experience
I confess I have not spent much time with wandering hour complications, so this was a very new experience.
Using the crown to move the hour discs as they travel across the top half of the dial is a lot of fun. Watching the hour disc execute a precise flip, lock into place, and continue through the wandering hours display is even more intriguing.
The dimensions make for an easy wear, and it slips comfortably under sleeves, though hiding it away would be a shame. The design language is distinctive across both the case and dial layout.
There is real depth to the dial. The three-dimensional wandering hour system feels architectural, and the black mother-of-pearl dial shifts with blues, purples, and greens as the wrist moves.
At night, when the watch reaches full luminosity you feel like you don't want to see daylight anymore. You are transported back to being a child that wants to hide under your duvet just so you can see the dial glow and be transported into space.
What Would Make Me Happier
The Orphic Project 0 is dramatic there is no doubting that. From its case design to its wandering hour layout there is nowhere to hide.
As I have said in previous reviews, I generally lean towards a more traditional aesthetic but I could not take this watch off. It gives time telling a new meaning and it should be embraced for that. Aware that Leo has focused on more 'traditional' watches, which I have spent time with, I am even more in awe of his willingness to put himself out there.
However, I also know that different can be 'scary' and therefore people may be put off by its 'out there' design. It isn't for everyone.
The layout of the minutes from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock means that legibility may be an issue for some. The very nature of a wandering hour display can be complicated in itself to decipher, and a factor when someone is considering buying it.
Given how incredible the black mother-of-pearl dial plate is, I feel that the reflection created on the sapphire crystal at times meant that I could not fully appreciate it. I note that my piece is a prototype and subject to improvement. I would say that more anti-reflective coating would certainly make the dial viewing experience even better.
Specifications
- Dial: Natural black Tahitian mother of pearl dial plate, wandering hour system made of 9 hexagonal disks inspired by the James Webb Space Telescope
- Case Diameter: 40 mm
- Thickness (excl crystal): 11 mm
- Lug to Lug: 47 mm
- Lug Width: 20 mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes
- Movement: Modified Miyota 9039 automatic
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 5 ATM / 50 m
- Bracelet / Strap: Hand-stitched French Epsom leather strap, black topside and red underside
Dislaimer: We don't use AI for authoring any of our visual or written artwork. Everything you find in Happy Horologists Magazine is and will be human made.
